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Nevado Huascarán : ウィキペディア英語版
Huascarán

Huascarán ((:waskaˈɾan)) or Nevado Huascarán is a mountain in the Peruvian province of Yungay (Ancash Departament), situated in the Cordillera Blanca range of the western Andes. The highest southern summit of Huascarán (Huascarán Sur) is the highest point in Peru, northern part of Andes (north of Lake Titicaca) and in all of the Earth's Tropics. Huascarán is the fourth highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere after Aconcagua, Ojos del Salado, and Monte Pissis. The mountain was named after Huáscar, a 16th-century Inca emperor who was the Sapa Inca of the Inca empire.〔Room, Adrian〕
The mountain has two distinct summits, the higher being the south one (Huascarán Sur) with an elevation of .〔 The north summit (Huascarán Norte) has an elevation of .〔 Both summits are separated by a saddle (called 'Garganta'). The core of Huascarán, like much of the Cordillera Blanca, consists of Cenozoic era granite.〔Ricker, John F., ''Yuraq Janka: Cordilleras Blanca and Rosko'', Alpine Club of Canada, 1977, ISBN 0-920330-04-5, after Wilson, Reyes, and Garayar, 1967.〕
Huascarán gives its name to Huascarán National Park which surrounds it, and is a popular location for trekking and mountaineering. The Huascarán summit is one of the points on the Earth's surface farthest from the Earth's center,〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=Tall Tales about Highest Peaks )〕 closely behind the farthest point, Chimborazo in Ecuador.〔
The summit of Huascarán is the place on Earth with the smallest gravitational force.
__NOTOC__
== Climbing ==
Huascarán is normally climbed from the village of Musho to the west via a high camp in the col that separates the two summits, known as La Garganta. The ascent normally takes five to seven days, the main difficulties being the large crevasses that often block the route.〔Biggar, John〕 The normal route is of moderate difficulty and rated between PD and AD (depending on the conditions of the mountain) according to the International French Adjectival System.
The summit of Huascarán Sur was first reached on 20 July 1932 by a joint GermanAustrian expedition.〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=1932 ascent )〕 The team followed what would become later the normal route (named today Garganta route). The north peak (Huascarán Norte) had previously been climbed on 2 September 1908 by a U.S. expedition that included Annie Smith Peck,〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=Annie Smith Peck )〕 albeit this first ascent is somewhat disputed.
In 1989, a group of eight amateur mountaineers, the "Social Climbers", held what was recognised by the Guinness Book of Records (1990 edition) to be "the world's highest dinner party" on top of the mountain, as documented by Chris Darwin and John Amy in their book ''The Social Climbers'', and raised £10,000 for charity.
The Huascarán massif spans from relatively easy to very challenging. The relative low technical difficulty of the normal route attracts many inexperienced climbers, so that a number of fatalities have occurred on the mountain.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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